From Bath we rejoined the M5, this time in very light snow. At Birmingham, the M5 merges with the M6, which takes you practically to the Scottish Border. On we drove and it began to get dark. There was a lot of traffic on the motorway but we took our time and eventually arrived in Manchester at 5.30pm at our Travelodge in Ashton under Lyne. Just as we pulled into the carpark it began to snow in earnest so it was decided to have dinner and a pint at a local pub instead of driving too far away. After dinner, walking back to the Travelodge, and the snow was coming in at a 45 degree and was as large as a 50c coin at least.
The next day we awoke to our car being covered in about 4-5 inches of snow on the roof. We walked to McDonalds for breakfast and then came back to get ready for Scott & Jenny Henry's christening of their son Noah. This mean a 10 minute drive to nearby Mossley but in the snow which was still pouring down, it took us about 30 minutes. The road was quite treacherous and we did not go over 20miles an hour in the car. We finally found St George's cathedral in Mossley and parked the car in snow about 8 inches deep. Walked into the cathedral and it was lovely to see a face to greet us that we recognised-Scott! After the service we were invited to join the bus trip to the Alpine restaurant in nearby Delph. Yes we would do that as the snow was now so bad we could barely see 30 metres. Off we went and after about 45 minutes of slow going we arrived at the bottom of the hill to the aptly names Alpine restaurant. On foot from there up the hill we walked on the slippery ice and new snow. After about 3 hours we departed by the same bus back to the car in Mossley and then crept our way back to the Travelodge in the snow which was still pouring down out of the grey sky.
The weather across the UK at this time was awful. Scotland had -16C in the Highlands and heaps of snow and London and the Home Counties were brought to a standstill will all of the snow which rolled in from the North Sea. At this point I did think we may get stuck in Manchester as it snowed for the whole time we were there.
Monday, December 28, 2009
The Romans weren't soap dodgers!
On the 19th we began early for a big day of driving north. Out onto the A38 and then at Exeter, changed to the M5 which runs up to Birmingham. At Bristol however we turned off onto the A4 and headed for Bath. After parking on the outskirts of this town, we caught a double decker bus into the centre where all of the action is. The town Bath is named for the naturally occuring springs that bubble up in what is the centre of the city.
The Romans, believing in the therapeutic value of the water and that is could also cure the mind of worries, built an elaborate set of baths around the springs. Over hundreds of years as the Roman empire was in decline the baths fell into disrepair and eventually were even built over. One day however a person had a flood in their basement and when repairs began the magnificent main bath was re-discovered. The main bath is probably about 20-25 metres long and about 10 metres wide. Up to 1.5million litres of water bubbles up naturally still from the ground and it is about 46.5C. On the day were were there, with the outside temperature being 2.5C, heaps and heaps of steam was coming off the surface. The further excavation of the site revealed private and public bathing houses of the main bath and various places of worship. The kids loved it and really it is a great place to stand and gape at the ingenuity of the Romans some 2000 years ago.
The Romans, believing in the therapeutic value of the water and that is could also cure the mind of worries, built an elaborate set of baths around the springs. Over hundreds of years as the Roman empire was in decline the baths fell into disrepair and eventually were even built over. One day however a person had a flood in their basement and when repairs began the magnificent main bath was re-discovered. The main bath is probably about 20-25 metres long and about 10 metres wide. Up to 1.5million litres of water bubbles up naturally still from the ground and it is about 46.5C. On the day were were there, with the outside temperature being 2.5C, heaps and heaps of steam was coming off the surface. The further excavation of the site revealed private and public bathing houses of the main bath and various places of worship. The kids loved it and really it is a great place to stand and gape at the ingenuity of the Romans some 2000 years ago.
Out & About-English Riviera
Nearby to Dartmouth is a small section of coastline which apparently hums with tourists in the warmer months. So renowned are the beaches and hotels, it is known as the English Riviera. Having been and stayed for long periods at its more well known cousin, the French Riviera, I could not see the reason for calling this piece of England the Riviera. It was however the middle of winter and bitingly cold at 1.5C most of the day.
After catching the Higher Ferry across the Dart, we drove onto Brixham at the southern end of the Riviera. The wind here nearly blew us from our vantage point above the yacht club. The village was quite pretty all around a man-made harbour. A replica of Drake's ship the Golden Hind was moored in the harbour as well. We drove onto Paignton which is the next town along the beach front from Brixham about 3-4 miles north. It was quite pretty with a pier and several hotels on the beach front promenade. Further north still was Torquay, another 2-3 miles north of Paignton. Here we stopped to visit a miniature village called the Model Village. Workers were working feverishly spreading fake snow and ice to make the miniature houses and cars all winterish. The kids loved this spot.
The next day we drove back to Torquay to visit the Kent Caverns. If there is a list of must do things on our holidays abroad it is Castles, Cathedrals and Caves. So to make it this far into a holiday without finding a cave was amazing! Kent Caverns have evidence of early humans living there from around 30000 years ago. It was quite a good tour and the kids loved it with a mini-dig site for them to find old teeth, bones and minerals.
After this we drove our to Buckfast on the A38. This Benedictine Monastry was destroyed in Henry VIII's discarding of the catholic faith. In the last 1800 and early 1900's it was rebuilt from the foundations up and is truly magnificent! At this point in the day the temperature climbed to 2.5C just in time for the Sun to set at 4pm.
After catching the Higher Ferry across the Dart, we drove onto Brixham at the southern end of the Riviera. The wind here nearly blew us from our vantage point above the yacht club. The village was quite pretty all around a man-made harbour. A replica of Drake's ship the Golden Hind was moored in the harbour as well. We drove onto Paignton which is the next town along the beach front from Brixham about 3-4 miles north. It was quite pretty with a pier and several hotels on the beach front promenade. Further north still was Torquay, another 2-3 miles north of Paignton. Here we stopped to visit a miniature village called the Model Village. Workers were working feverishly spreading fake snow and ice to make the miniature houses and cars all winterish. The kids loved this spot.
The next day we drove back to Torquay to visit the Kent Caverns. If there is a list of must do things on our holidays abroad it is Castles, Cathedrals and Caves. So to make it this far into a holiday without finding a cave was amazing! Kent Caverns have evidence of early humans living there from around 30000 years ago. It was quite a good tour and the kids loved it with a mini-dig site for them to find old teeth, bones and minerals.
After this we drove our to Buckfast on the A38. This Benedictine Monastry was destroyed in Henry VIII's discarding of the catholic faith. In the last 1800 and early 1900's it was rebuilt from the foundations up and is truly magnificent! At this point in the day the temperature climbed to 2.5C just in time for the Sun to set at 4pm.
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Out & About-St Michaels Mount
One of Angela's favourite spots from our last trip here is St Michaels Mount in Cornwall. It is practically as far as you can drive and remain in mainland England, only 12 miles from the famour Lands End. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Michaels_Mount
Up early again and this time down the Devon Expressway, passing through Plymouth on the Tamar River and across the enormous Tamar Bridge. After about 2 hours we arrived at Marazion which is the small village on the mainland over looking St Michaels Mount in Mounts Bay. The tide was way out when we arrived so we walked down onto the sand and the causeway to the Island which was completely exposed out of the water. After about 15 minutes and many photos of the imposing, rocky island before us we made it to the visitors centre in time to join the 11am tour group.
The Island has a long history essentially based on the good fishing that is possible in the Bay area. It is owned again by a wealth and aristocratic family but only a nephew lives on the Island itself. The castle and Chapel on the top of the rock are very interesting and beautifully decorated. We spent several hours exploring the gardens, paths and castle while at the Mount. Obviously by that time though the tide had come back in and flooded the causeway to the mainland. To the kids amazement, we boarded a 'duck' (bus/boat) and motored back across the water to the mainland.
We drive from there back around the Bay to Penzance and Mousehole and over then to St Ives. There was real sand at St Ives and we played a while before the sun began to set at around 3.45pm. Back in the car and home we drove.
Up early again and this time down the Devon Expressway, passing through Plymouth on the Tamar River and across the enormous Tamar Bridge. After about 2 hours we arrived at Marazion which is the small village on the mainland over looking St Michaels Mount in Mounts Bay. The tide was way out when we arrived so we walked down onto the sand and the causeway to the Island which was completely exposed out of the water. After about 15 minutes and many photos of the imposing, rocky island before us we made it to the visitors centre in time to join the 11am tour group.
The Island has a long history essentially based on the good fishing that is possible in the Bay area. It is owned again by a wealth and aristocratic family but only a nephew lives on the Island itself. The castle and Chapel on the top of the rock are very interesting and beautifully decorated. We spent several hours exploring the gardens, paths and castle while at the Mount. Obviously by that time though the tide had come back in and flooded the causeway to the mainland. To the kids amazement, we boarded a 'duck' (bus/boat) and motored back across the water to the mainland.
We drive from there back around the Bay to Penzance and Mousehole and over then to St Ives. There was real sand at St Ives and we played a while before the sun began to set at around 3.45pm. Back in the car and home we drove.
Out & About-Clovelly
Since our last post the weather has turned particularly nasty. More on that in a moment. We have been very busy doing little local day trips around Devon & Cornwall, in the past week. First trip was up to a village called Clovelly http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clovelly on the north coast of Devon. This took some getting to as Dartmouth is on the south coast of Devon. When I think of English roads, my mind conjures up narrow lanes, rock fences and hedges. Well the way to Clovelly is typical of this. Our first stop for morning tea was at a village called Bovey Tracey. It was on the banks of a small stream called Bovey and our coffee shop, by strange coincidence was called Brookside. We told the counter staff that we were on our way to Clovelly and had set out earlier that morning from Dartmouth. The gasped and said, "oh my you must have left early to already be in Bovey Tracey". Bovey Tracey was about a 45 minute drive at a maximum, from Dartmouth.
On we drove, further north, frequently pulling over in a gateway or small overtaking area so a big bus or truck, coming the other way, could pass us. After passing through the big town of Bideford, we turned west, following the coast and 3.5 hours from home, arrived at the Clovelly visitors centre. This is located at the top of a cliff, and in the summer, we could have taken advantage of a range rover ride to the bottom. As it is well and truly winter, we walked down the cobble stoned road into the village.
Apparently Clovelly was built at one of the few accessible beaches on the north coast of Devon, and has be inhabitated for about 1000 years. In the last couple of hundred years, fishermen built a small harbour with sea-wall and slowly houses were built, two deep on each side of the street leading back up the cliff to the visitors centre. The locals were extremely unfriendly, I guess because they are sick of prying tourists but as the information video points out it relies upon tourists to survive.
The village is wholly owned by a wealthy family and it is only the second owner in the entire history of the town. The villagers rent their homes from this landowner. We walked done to the harbour and across the Bristol Channel in the fog to Wales. After this we stayed at the Harbour Inn for some lunch and began our slow and long walk back up the cliff. Decided to continue down the Devon Coast and into Cornwall and home on one of the divided highways which slashed travel time almost in half.
On we drove, further north, frequently pulling over in a gateway or small overtaking area so a big bus or truck, coming the other way, could pass us. After passing through the big town of Bideford, we turned west, following the coast and 3.5 hours from home, arrived at the Clovelly visitors centre. This is located at the top of a cliff, and in the summer, we could have taken advantage of a range rover ride to the bottom. As it is well and truly winter, we walked down the cobble stoned road into the village.
Apparently Clovelly was built at one of the few accessible beaches on the north coast of Devon, and has be inhabitated for about 1000 years. In the last couple of hundred years, fishermen built a small harbour with sea-wall and slowly houses were built, two deep on each side of the street leading back up the cliff to the visitors centre. The locals were extremely unfriendly, I guess because they are sick of prying tourists but as the information video points out it relies upon tourists to survive.
The village is wholly owned by a wealthy family and it is only the second owner in the entire history of the town. The villagers rent their homes from this landowner. We walked done to the harbour and across the Bristol Channel in the fog to Wales. After this we stayed at the Harbour Inn for some lunch and began our slow and long walk back up the cliff. Decided to continue down the Devon Coast and into Cornwall and home on one of the divided highways which slashed travel time almost in half.
Thursday, December 17, 2009
A White Xmas?
And to think that the English sent their criminals to settle a place with sandy beaches, warm weather and an abundance of space. Choosing to remain behind, they endure 6 hour winter days, temperatures that never climb about 10C and at present are below 5C in the day and freezing or negative at night. Which group of people are the lucky ones? During winter, as with our last stay here, it does beg the question of why anyone lives here. But saying that, we left 35C days and the same could be said there.
I have just had a look at the Met Office website; www.metoffice.gov.uk and snow is now being forecast as a certainty in the South East on Thursday evening and into Friday. The South East is essentially London, the Home Counties and down toward the Channel. Falls of 10-15cm and more in higher hillier areas with major distruption to transport predicted. Fortunately, or not (if you ask Hannah & Ryan), we are in the South West, as far south as you can almost be in Great Britain and so may avoid the worst of it. Our days have been overcast and occasionally wet early on, then clearing to be sunny by lunchtime and cloudy in the later afternoon. The sun is rising at around 8.15am and setting by 4pm which makes fitting in outings and daylight activities a bit tricky.
I have just had a look at the Met Office website; www.metoffice.gov.uk and snow is now being forecast as a certainty in the South East on Thursday evening and into Friday. The South East is essentially London, the Home Counties and down toward the Channel. Falls of 10-15cm and more in higher hillier areas with major distruption to transport predicted. Fortunately, or not (if you ask Hannah & Ryan), we are in the South West, as far south as you can almost be in Great Britain and so may avoid the worst of it. Our days have been overcast and occasionally wet early on, then clearing to be sunny by lunchtime and cloudy in the later afternoon. The sun is rising at around 8.15am and setting by 4pm which makes fitting in outings and daylight activities a bit tricky.
Sunday, December 13, 2009
Castles & Coves
Slept in today as I think the body was expecting the sun to wake us like at home. Not so. The sky gradually produced the colours of dawn around 7.45am. Had a late breakfast and saddled up to drive down to the village. Continued on to the Dartmouth Castle at the mouth of the Dart River. First constructed on the site during the 1380's and upgraded during the reign of monarch Henry VIII, it is quite small. Apparently a French or Spanish warship was able to sneak past the Castle one night (not surprising given the 7 hrs of winter sunlight) and so a chain was then suspended across the Dart River to stop any future invaders. The cannons, were faced out to sea and could fire up to a 4inch shell. As recently as WWII it was thought the Nazis may invade England at locations like Dartmouth so the Castle saw service as a coastal defence location.
Dartmouth is also famous as the final leaping off point for the Mayflower (the first boatload of free settlers) which then sailed to present day USA. The Mayflower was accompanied by another boat which promptly began leaking off Lands End, Cornwall and returned to land. The Bayards Cove in Dartmouth was the departure point for the Mayflower.
We walked all through the main part of Dartmouth village with many many pubs and restaurants along with a multitude of boutique clothing and home decorating stores. Some buildings are almost 400 years old and still standing.
After lunch, we drove down to Blackpool Sands beach. During summer this apparently has a lifesaver on duty and rents all manner of water sports equipment. Not today it didn't as it was 8C and sands in the name is a slight exaggeration with small 1cm pebbles across the entire surface. Still very pretty and a lovely restaurant and coffee house on the shoreline. Today was the first day in 3 since arriving that we have seen the Sun and blue sky. It you stay for long enough out of the wind, the 10.5C we got up to was quite warm.
Dartmouth is also famous as the final leaping off point for the Mayflower (the first boatload of free settlers) which then sailed to present day USA. The Mayflower was accompanied by another boat which promptly began leaking off Lands End, Cornwall and returned to land. The Bayards Cove in Dartmouth was the departure point for the Mayflower.
We walked all through the main part of Dartmouth village with many many pubs and restaurants along with a multitude of boutique clothing and home decorating stores. Some buildings are almost 400 years old and still standing.
After lunch, we drove down to Blackpool Sands beach. During summer this apparently has a lifesaver on duty and rents all manner of water sports equipment. Not today it didn't as it was 8C and sands in the name is a slight exaggeration with small 1cm pebbles across the entire surface. Still very pretty and a lovely restaurant and coffee house on the shoreline. Today was the first day in 3 since arriving that we have seen the Sun and blue sky. It you stay for long enough out of the wind, the 10.5C we got up to was quite warm.
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